My rug hooking workshop schedule has been very full the last few years. I enjoy teaching so it was a joy, but it did not allow much time for musing. This summer I’ve had time to slow down and think. One topic that has been whirling around in my head has been rughooking finishing.
To zig zag or not to zig zag the edge of a hooked rug?
I learned my first finishing method from Rug Hooking Magazine. I was then exposed to the fold forward finish at Sauder Village by Evelyn Lawrence. Jule Marie Smith, my teacher that year, took the method a step further and eliminated the cording because of the thicker nature of rug warp. I’ve used that method ever since.
Using a sewing machine on a hooked rug
I remember a scheduled slide show with Jessie Turbayne 
Conclusion: Am I perforating the edge when I so carefully zig zag?
Am I doing more harm than good by zig zagging? I think so. Once the backing is folded up and whipped, it is not going to unravel any more. Not sure how the custom of the stitching started, but I’ve been carrying it forward.
No more. I hate the process of prepping the backing. I do need and benefit from zig zagging the outer edge after I cut off the excess. I can live with doing that much. I tried to finish one of my stair risers once without a sewing machine when I was out of town. I’ll never try that again. It unraveled so fast it was all I could do to get it stitched up quickly.
No sewing machine? Here are some solutions
- Have a friend do it. Just ask. Offer rughooking wool if needed.
- Use fray check. I’ve never tried this because the stuff is just too darned expensive but I’ve been told it works. If you do use it, be sure it says acid-free on the label. You don’t want your edge decaying from the inside out.
- Hand stitch over the edge enough to keep the fibers from unraveling as you work with it
- Work fast, only cutting as you need it. I tried this and it was a dismal failure for me.
To secure the edge as you are rug hooking:
- Duck tape. Lenny Freeman using this on the edge of his patterns. It comes in a really cool animal prints. It looks like duct tape, but is intended for fabric and is much softer. Doesn’t matter if it is acid free or not, you’ll be cutting that part off later anyways.
- Fold the edge twice and stitch.
Can you think of any other ways to finish the edge of your rughooking so that the backing does not unravel as you sew up the edge? Leave a comment and I will add it to this list.
I have been asked, ‘how is a chevron edge done’ and I have not found in any of my books anything about this technique. Do you know? Thanks in advance.
It is often called the herringbone edge. It looks great from the side of the rug, but in my opinion, it looks sloppy from the top, where I view most of my rugs from. It is complicated and needs better eyesight than I have. I’ve heard it claimed that it wears better because it has double coverage but I’ve seen it snag because the passes of yarn are much longer (and easier to get caught on something) since they cross over the edge at an angle.
I figure I can always rewhip the edge when the yarn wears out. I’ll do it when it needs it down the line. I’ve got too much hooking to do today. It is a tiny detail that adds very little to the rug.
Cindi, do you ever use rug tape and sew it right up to the hooking on the right side then just turn tape under and stitch?
Arlene,
I don’t use rug tape if I can avoid it. It is necessary for the method I use for finishing stair risers (post for that is in the works.)
If you use rug tape, be sure to boil it with soap, refilling with water and soap repeatedly until the water stays almost clear. The most recent batch took 9 refills. If you don’t, the first time the rug gets wet (we never plan on that happening. . .) the dye will run into your rug.
The other reason has to do with where the knife fold edge occurs on the backing. With the fold forward method I use it is 3/4″ of an inch away from the base of the loops. With rug tape is is right at the loops. It does not matter if your piece is a wall hanging and will never see foot traffic. What causes the decay at the fold is time. I haven’t figured out how to stop time yet.
I was once taught to spread white glue around the edges of my rug warp to prevent fraying while hooking. It works fine but you have to wait for it to dry and it has ti be brushed or rubbed smooth to ensure an effective result.
Now I just use duct tape. It comes off easily if uou need it to, but you will usually cut it off when you get ready to finish.
Kellie,
The Duck brand duct tape is supposed to be softer than regular duct tape. I haven’t checked it out at the stores yet.
Regarding no zig-zag finishing: I just cut one side at a time, fold over twice and pin in place, then whip that side leaving an inch or so undone near the corners. If the sides are very long I will do a quick stitch by hand along that side to help keep the folded edges in place. Then I do the same for the other 3 sides, one side at a time. Then I go back and do the corners. Less work.
Lynn,
I agree your method is less work, but I’d rather do something pleasant for a long time than something unpleasant or frustrating for a short time. I hate getting stuck with pins and a basted edge is easily portable.
I like to cover cord with wool fabric and then sew it onto my rugs by hand, no backing shows when finished. Yes this takes time but it looks so neat when finished.
Diana,
I used that method on the Village of Pemberville. Down side is that the knife fold edge is still right at the base of the loops – and it is expensive if you have to buy a 3″ strip of wool to go all the way around the rug. A simple skein of yarn will whip most rugs. In fact, my room sized rug will use less than 2 skeins.
I have used silicone (for kitchen/bath plumbing) with great success. It comes in a tube, is reasonable, doesn’t dry hard and is easy to apply. I never thought to check if it is acid free. Takes about a half hour to dry.
I just now read all the warnings on the back of the tube, which you need a magnifying glass to read. You are supposed to be careful of the fumes. I wasn’t. Maybe that’s why I was so happy using it.
Jeni,
Thanks for the comment. It put a huge smile on my face. Even if it is not acid free using it on the outer edge of your rug as you hook is fine. That part of the backing will be cut off when the rug is finished.
Just saw your reply to my comment. Guess I’m not the fastest hooker on the block, huh?
I guess I didn’t explain that my “happy silicone” is not cut off. I use it to cut my backing within 3/4″ from the hooking and then hand sew wool strips around the edge. Since at least half of the wool I use is recycled, the wool strips are not expensive.
I have just finished hooking a rug I began 35 years ago. It is octagonal with a 52″ diameter. As I read through your directions I was first confused with the instruction to steam. Am I to steam the entire rug or the edge? What does the steaming do? With the small rugs I did in the distant past, I used tape and did not bind the edge. I can see that a whipped edge would be better and I hope to try that with this rug, but first I have to understand this steaming business. A second concern is whether I should use 8 pieces of tape along the perimeter or fold the tape at each corner. I will appreciate whatever guidance you can give.
Helen
Steam the entire rug. It gives your rug a really polished finished look. Steam just 1/2 to prove it!
I do not use tape at all. If you are following this method there is no need for the tape. The tape covers the raw edge, and with this method there is no raw edge to cover.
If you still plan on using tape, I would use one continuous piece. Be sure to preshrink it!
I’m coming back to rug hooking after a very long absence. The Eaton Edge developed by East Coast hooker Doris Eaton seems brilliant to me. She basically sews on binding and hooks a line next to it on the reverse side. Then she hooks another line on the topside right next to it. She then ignores the edge, hooking where she will until done. Folds over the tape and sews it down. Done and dusted. There’s a good youtube video. She’s such a treat! I’ll be back.