If you are looking for a simple finish, try this one.
Doris Eaton demonstrates the Eaton Edge.
The way to evaluate a finish is to ask where is the knife fold edge? Simply turning back the edge with sewn on rug tape is not a long wearing finish because what causes our backing to fail is the sharp fold and time. I’ve often heard, “It’s just a wall hanging.” You still have to deal with time –unless you’ve figured a way around that and if you have, give me a call.
This finish is supported by the first row of upside down loops so there is some support but you have to be comfortable with the look of the finish. When the binding wears out, you could probably whip over it with yarn, but you will have to do the entire rug instead of just the wear spot as you would for a whipped rug.
Be sure the tension on your sewing machine is just right. I’ve seen this done by a new student and the tension was so off her rug could not lay flat. Picking out sewing machine stitches is very difficult without damaging the backing. You may consider sewing it on by hand or sewing it down with a embroidery chain stitch and yarn as I did for the purse below.

I’ll have a post on this purse soon.
Cindi Gay Rug Hooking Newsletter

Enter your email carefully.
If you have a typo, you will never receive the confirmation email. You need to click on the link in this first email you receive. This confirms your email address and adds you to the list.
Take a break once a week.
Delivered in the middle of the week, in the middle of the day, Tuesday at noon, eastern.
Got to love those brainwaves that work!
Good advice, Cindi… thanks! I like the look of the chain stitch on your purse finish. Is your last row hooked lower or reverse hooked like Doris does? Or is it just an optical illusion?
Complete optical illusion. In fact, a complete afterthought. I did not intend (or think to) add sashing or flat wool to the edge but during construction I discovered I needed to do this. The chain stitch with yarn was the fastest way to attach the wool.
I steamed every rug I’ve done so far on an ironing board, moving as I needed to get to all of it. Just adapt the steaming instructions by moving the rug. Once you get it all damp and warm, lay it out flat, measure the diagonals and let it be. The shape it is in when it dries is the shape it will stay in.
I’ve heard horror stories from warped hard wood floors to melted carpeting. The convenience of having it flat does not out weigh the potential for damage. Steaming it a bit at a time is all you can do anyways unless your iron is a lot larger than mine. ;-)
My plans for the room sized rug will be to set up a table with plywood, saw horses and wool blankets. I’m not worried about keeping it flat, I plan to invite everyone I know with an iron to stop by and have a “steaming bee.” More for the sake of saving time than anything else.
Cindi…thank you for the great helpful hints. Could you cover (when you have time)
helpful hints about steaming a floor rug? Do you lay yours out on the floor? ….pin it
to block?…..or what. I tried steaming mine on my large cutting mat on my sewing table, but unfortunately I warped the mat in doing so. Dumb, huh! Thanks again. Betty